Monday May 29th

Jack Ziv-el called and said he was in Tel Aviv so we decided to meet for a late morning bite. I took a taxi to where he was and we spent a pleasant hour together. I told him I would walk the several miles back to the flat as the weather had cooled considerably. I negotiated several blocks when a car stopped and the driver yelled out "Harris?". It was Yair Barda. I asked where he was headed and he said to North Tel Aviv to have lunch with an old army buddy. I agreed to go along. After lunch they were to head north near Haifa so I would need to take a taxi back. His friend works security at the municipal airport where we picked him up. They chose a new Japanese restaurant. Unlike the Chinese restaurant, everyone working there was Asian. It was cool listening to the Asian waitress speak fluent Hebrew. They ate their sushi and I drank mayim (water). As always, the topic of conversation was centered upon events here in Israel. On the way to the restaurant Nachum had called. He had a meeting at the Hilton and wanted to see me before I left. I took a taxi to the Hilton and we met for an hour until his meeting began.

I had dinner with Sagi at a hole in the wall pasta bar a few blocks from the flat. It was very good.

Barda had asked me if I would be kind enough to give his ex girlfriend the keys she had left behind. I told him no problem and it was arranged she would pick them up around 11 pm. She was instructed to call me in order to advise her where I would be. I was sitting at the bar at Lucas with Sagi when she called at 10:45 to inform me she was just leaving Jerusalem. I told her to forget it as I did not wish to wait at least an hour. She asked about tomorrow and I said fine. She said how about 8 am. I asked if she could make it later and she asked if 8:15 was ok. I didn't argue. I told her to call when she got here and I would bring the keys down to her car. These Israelis are something.

Our Rabbi from Florida, Leonid Feldman arrived tonight from Russia with a group from the Congregation. I knew he was arriving in Jerusalem today and as prearranged left a message for him with the reservation desk. He said I must stay for Shavuot in Jerusalem. There will be at least 100,000 people walking the streets culminating in a concert with DuDu Fisher, a world renowned Cantor, whom Renay and I have seen several times. Rabbi Feldman said this is a once in a lifetime event and I should not miss it. So all of you who anxiously await my return, please be advised, I was fortunate to change my flight and will now return Saturday.

Sunday May 28th

Not much to report today. Went to a park on Shenkin Street and started a new book. Went to dinner with Itay and Guy.

Saturday May 27th-Saxaphones

It was extremely hot today. While Shabbat is a lot different in Tel Aviv than Jerusalem, where most everything is closed, one still senses that this day is different here in Tel Aviv. There is no public transportation, many businesses are closed and it is relatively quiet when compared to the rest of the week. Due to the heat I did not care to do anything strenuous. I was down to my last clean shirt, and not anxious to confront the washing machine, here in the building, with the German instructions I decided to purchase a few new garments. Sagi managed to borrow a car for the day and we headed to the marina in Herzilya where there is a modern mall. We drove along the beach which was packed. Miles and miles of families and tourists. The parking garage at the mall was filled and after 1/2 hour with no luck in getting a spot we found a lot nearby. The marina is loaded with amazing restaurants all of them offering outside seating. As we partaked our lunch I marveled as families congregated for the day. As the children frolicked about I longed for my granddaughters. I purchased a few shirts in the mall and we headed back to Tel Aviv for some rest. We went to Herziliya again to meet Jack & Priscella Ziv-el. They had invited me to a saxaphone concert The performers are called The Jerusalem Saxaphone Ensemble or something of that sort. I met Jack & his wife several years ago when I chanted a haftorah in their synagogue. Jack is the president. He and Priscella invited me to their home after the services and quickly we became friends. Jack was born in Vilna and in 1936 his father foresaw the fate of the Jews and emigrated to South Africa. Most of the family that stayed behind perished in the holocaust. Jack attained an engineering degree and worked for a steel company. He rapdily rose in the company and was sent to M.I.T. where he received his PHD. He met Priscella in the states. She is from New Hampshire. At age 55 he took early retirement and they made aliyah to Israel. They have been here over 25 years. They are good people. I once asked Jack why he moved here and his response was immediate. "I was always a Zionist and it was my dream to move to Israel".

We met at their home and went to a Chinese restaurant for dinner. I asked the manager of the restaurant why there were no Chinese people working there. With a smile he told me they were in the back. I had no idea of who the Jerusalem Saxaphone group was, thinking it was probably some old seasoned musicians from Jerusalem. To my surprise 4 young people, probably in their late teens or early 20s, 3 beautiful boys and a girl, took the stage, 3 with saxaphones and the 4th with what I believe is a soprano sax that, in any event, looks like a clarinet. They began with several classical pieces from Haydn, Bach, etc. Then came some show tunes and "In the Mood". For the final number their teacher accompanied them and it was obvious I was witnessing an accomplished musician. The audience of about 1,000 went wild. These kids were completely attuned to each other. The perfect harmony and rhythym was something to hear. It was explained that all 4 were in the IDF (Israel Defense Force) and part of an IDF program that allows super talented artists and athletes to get special time to pursue their skills while serving in the army. The thinking is not to have them lose 3 years of perfecting their talents. After the intermission, 9 youngsters, probably aged 10-16 took the stage, and again, the music was outstanding. Unbelievable talent. As I listened and watched in awe I thought how wonderful this country is, the lengths we take we to educate our children, to teach them how to live a moral and ethical life, while a few miles away the process is to teach hate and encourage their children to blow themselves up in order to murder innocent civilians. For the finale the 4 IDF soldiers joined the young kids for a jam session. The teacher was onstage and you could feel how proud he was. I sure was proud.

Back to Tel Aviv for a nightcap or 2 and a night of peaceful sleep.

Friday May 26th

Went to the Yemenite section to meet with artists at a real, real Yemenite restaurant. I could have been in Iraq, Lebanon et. al. 60 years ago. The food was wonderful. Assorted characters sat with us. An artist who makes lamps who does not like to talk, a painter who never shuts up and a lady who can heal you by speaking to the dead.

Then went to the Professor's house. Dr. Yoav Yalon, who I met on trip to Jordan is an expert on middle east affairs at Tel Aviv University. He is left of left of left. I sure do vary my friends here. But that's how I learn. We struggled with the heat while this genius tried to figure how to turn his air conditioner on. He is extremely smart and a pleasure to talk to. He, Sagi and myself conversed for about an hour and then walked over to Dizengoff Street for a bite. Got back to the flat about 8. Moshe called at 9:30 and informed he was at Lucas downstairs and would I care to join him and Karin for dinner. I went down and sat with them until they finished.

Thursday May 25th-A Day of Mixed Emotions

Had Israeli breakfast just about every day for cost of 39 shekelst at Lucas downstairs. The breakfast consists of juice, coffee, eggs or omelet, bread, salad, herring, cheeses and a few other items. This morning I asked if I could just get juice, omelet and coffee. The waitress said she would have to ask. After some consultation she got it approved. Cost 50 shekels. This reminded me of the time in Florida in an ice cream shop that had a sign for the day's special. A hot fudge sundae with a chocolate brownie for $1.89. I told the clerk I didn't want the brownie and he replied he would have to charge me full price because I didn't order the special. Being in Israel, and much more mature now, I didn't make a fuss, paid the 50 shekels and left a larger tip than usual. Why do these things happen to me?

Sagi and I went to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. He was excited to see an exhibit by Michal Rovner, a hot Israeli modern artist who works with photography and video. From what I understand, in this exhibit called Fields, she take video and slowly reduces it by erasure until ghost-like and shadowy figures forge a path within an abstractly defined landscape. Faceless people, whose identities transcend time and nationality, march in formation or wander in groups and in isolation. This is all beamed from a video camera in the ceiling unto a rock. To me it was stupid as it appeared to me like a bunch of ants running around. After 10 minutes I told Sagi I had it. Where are the Van Goghs, Lichtensteins or Rembrandts? I picked up a directory and noticed there was an exhibit named Disengagement.

The photographs and video works in this exhibition revolve around the disengagement and the separation fence. Most of the works are from the last two years, since the disengagement plan was first declared, and document the events reflecting the controversies over the plan: the activists who streamed into the settlements in the Gaza Strip and northern Samaria prior to the evacuation, the evacuation itself, as well as events from the day after. The exhibition seeks to present a wide spectrum of views and attitudes to political events, to the population involved in them, to the landscapes of contention, and examine the influence these images have upon the collective visual consciousness. In addition there was a documentary film about 45 minutes in length which followed the events leading up to the evacution of one of the settlements in Gaza through the actual evacuation. One had to feel for these people who had lived there for many years and now had to give up their homes. I also had admiration for the gentle way the soldiers handled the situation. It was very powerful and left me shaken. It was about 2 pm. Sagi had told me earlier he was taking me somewhere special at 6. I was so drained from the Disengagement exhibit I told him I was going to the flat to rest and would meet him later to go to wherever he was taking me.

At 6 pm we arrived at this old building in not the best area. Waiting for us outside was Sarah. Sagi had met her at a recent vacation in the Sinai. She told him she taught yoga to blind people. They quickly developed a friendship and she invited him to a show. The shows actors are mostly all blind and deaf. They suffer from Usher Syndrome which is a degenerative disease. We climbed about 4 flights and there in front of me were 11 men and women. One of the men Itzik was born blind and deaf. About 1/2 are totally blind and deaf and the others have either very limited vision or hearing all of which will be lost over time. I didn't count, but, it appeared that the workers were close to 11 in number. If not one on one, very close. There are 2 directors: Adina Tal, a Swiss who came to Israel at age 20 and for many years has been active in the world of theater as a director and actress. Within a few years she built, together with the deaf-blind people, the performance "Light is heard in Zig Zag"; and Eran Gur an Israeli born businessman with 20 years experience in the security field. Eran was invited to one of the performances and decided to change the course of his life, sold his business and joined Adina and to this he now devotes his life.

So in front of me at this long table are the 11 who are kneading dough. We were there for a rehearsal for their upcoming show in June. I took a seat and Eran positioned himself behind me to explain. First, I was asked to shake hands with all of them. I was introduced, but, they could not see nor hear me. They wanted to communicate by hand. All of their communication is done by tapping on their hands. So as I approached each one a worker would tap on their hand telling them I was there to shake their hand. As each one shook my hand an infectious smile appeared. They were pleased to meet me and that was their way of expressing their pleasure.

Now it was time for the rehearsal. They were all kneading the doughh vigorously (later to be baked into bread). Adina and another person each had a drum, the kind you hit with your hand. Achod, shnyim, shalosh (1,2,3) Adina said and then she and the other person slapped the drums together twice. Immediately, they all stopped kneading. The vibrations they could sense was the signal to stop. A few moments passed and one of the 4 who could speak stood and introduced him or herself. Eran interpreted for me. "I am Abraham, I like to walk fast without anyone helping me". "I am Ilana, I used to be able to see. 18 years ago my sister came home from the hospital with a baby boy I touched the baby's face and realized I would never be able to see the face". For those who could not talk that person would stand and one of the 4 who could speak would speak for him or her. One slap of the drum and they all sat down and started the kneading until the 2 slaps came again and they would do something different. I guess they had to keep count to know where they were in the program. It was amazing. On and on it went for an hour. Itzik, the man born blind and deaf said a prayer, baruch, atah, adoni....At one point Sagi told me he cried when he 1st saw this. I told him I had a feeling of happiness. I was happy to see people trying and giving in the form of the play and happy to witness the dedicated teachers. I would have cried if I saw them laying around doing nothing with no one to care. These people were giving not taking. They were happy to be accomplishing something in the most unimaginable circumstances. They have appeared in many countries and at Lincoln Center in New York. There will be a performance Oct. 24th in Jaffa and I want to plan Renay's and my visit in Oct. to include that date. For more information here is the website address http://www.nalagaat.org.il/

I have determined there are no taxi drivers in Israel who know where anything is. I asked the driver to take me to Boya Restaurant in the Old Port. I have eaten there at least 10 times. He told me Boya is in Jaffa. I told him it was not and he began arguing with me. Finally, I said I decided not to eat at Boya just take me to the port. At Boya I met the Kramers for dinner.

Wednesday May 24th-The Marty Roberts Show

About6 months ago I started downloading a podcast called the Marty Roberts Show. Marty is an intersting fellow who migrated to Israel about 15 years ago with his wife, 4 children and one on the way. He has since added 2 more kids. He speaks into his computer 5 times a week to talk about his life in Israel and then publishes it to the internet. He is definitely right wing. Make that right, right wing. I listen to him religiously. I emailed him and made arrangements to visit while in Israel. Moshe had to go to pick up camel milk from his camel farm in Beersheeba which is in the Negev desert. Marty lives in Metar which is between Beersheba and Hebron. Moshe dropped me off at LaRoma Cafe in Beersheba and Marty met me there and drove me to his home which is 15 minutes away. Moshe told me he needed about an hour (translated 2 hours)and he would call me when he was ready and I would meet him for the ride back to Tel Aviv. To get to Marty's we had to go through a heavily armed checkpoint. Once through the checkpoint I had my best view of the fence. He diverted to show me miles and miles of settlements with no fence. But these settlements are not Jewish. They are Bedouin. He explained they are not there legally and, yet, the government says and does nothing. The Bedouins' history is one of smuggling, theft, etc. In addition they are marrying Palestinians and he is very concerned. He claims almost everyone in Metar has had their car stolen. Finally, we arrived at his very nice home where I was graciously greeted by his wife Ellen. We sat down and he related his life to me.

Marty was born in New York City, and grew up in Paramus, New Jersey. He had a traditional conservative Jewish background and wasn't all that much interested in the religion until he went on a teen trip to an orthodox event over several days. He was immediately overwhelmed and came home and announced he was becoming orthodox. He practiced the religion faithfully until he was in college when his mother died from cancer at age 40. He was observing the mourning requirements and became disillusioned, I suppose questioning how G-d let this tragedy happen. So he went completely the other way. Subsequently, he finished Wm, & Mary and then attended Loyola in California gaining his degree in dentistry and finally licensed as an orthodontist. He married and started a practice in California. Then, as he explained to me, living in an area with few Jews he was drawn back to orthodoxy, began studying extensively and took the religion to the fullest extent. After a few years he started thinking about Israel and realized that he was praying for and about it each day and had never been there. So he and his wife decided to visit for 10 days. They came home and discussed the possibilty of moving to Israel. They decided to give it a try for 1 year, He sold his practice and off they went with the kids. They never came back. He was able to get licensed for his profession, but, orthodontistry in Israel is not the same as in California. He was able to make a living travelling the country to assist other dentists 4 days a week. Since childhood he had an interest in radio and had tinkered with it in college. He saw an ad for a talk show host on the only right wing station in Israel. He decided to apply and got the spot. It soon became the number one show. After some time, the station was closed down by the government. His version why and what I have heard from others are not the same. I will not go into it here. His listeners asked him to go on the internet, he learned how to do it and thus his voice is heard again.

About 18 months ago Marty was struck with colon cancer. He received treatment and for now is free of the cancer. However, as a result his hands were affected and are not steady so he had to give up his profession. Luckily, he has good disability insurance and is able to get by. He would like to expand the program in length and ultimately be able to have the ability for live call in. This would require many things such as the ability to stream the show, 800 numbers, marketing, etc. all of which cost money. We discussed the amount and I advised him that he should concentrate on building his base so that he would have enough people who are willing to subscribe. A one shot injection now would soon dissipate and would be a waste. He agreed.

Marty, despises the government, thinks no settler should be made to move as Jews should be able to live anywhere on the land they choose, and that every Jew should move to Israel, as he puts it "it is time to come home". I don't hate the government even though I have disagreements with it, I believe Jews have the right to live where they want on the land, but, it is not practical and will never happen and I don't want all the Jews to move here. It's because Jews were scattered all over that we have Israel. So as you can see this man is extreme. But I like him. I like his shows as he keeps me connected. Marty has the ability to clearly explain what is going on here and is not limited to religion or politics. You get a daily dose what life is about here. If interested go to itunes, music store, and type in Marty Roberts in the search box to download. Or simply go to this link to listen to the stream http://israelnewsradio.net/.

For the 1st time since I met Moshe he called me in exactly 1 hour to tell me he was ready. I told him I was not close to ready and I would take the train back. When Marty and I finished his wife served a nice lunch, he showed me where and how he does the broadcast. I offered some support to help keep him on the air and he drove me to the train. The trains are modern, air conditioned, comfortable and overall very pleasant. 1 hour 10 minutes later I was back home in Tel Aviv.

Tuesday May 23rd-Beethoven's Ninth Symphony

Moshe called and asked me to look at some property he is thinking of purchasing in Jaffa as he wanted my opinion. So off we went. The renovations in Jaffa are amazing. Jaffa is adjacent to Tel Aviv to the south. I could actually walk there from the flat. It was founded in 1909 when the ancient city of Jaffa was fully built. In my opinion it will soon become the in spot in the Greater Tel Aviv area where the wealthy will flock. I think the building he is contemplating is a steal, but, will require a huge amount to renovate.

Barda and I went to dinner at Prada, an excellent Italian restaurant. From there we went to the Mann auditorium to hear the Israeli Philharmonic which was to perform Beethoven's Ninth. This symphony includes the added excitement of a choir. So there we were in the 5th row right when this amazing choir of 100 entered. Then the orchestra took its places and numbers at least 120. The conductor came onstage to thunderous applause and I anxiously awaited the start of the concert. Then to my surprise, a door opened below right stage and in marched the President of Israel followed by the Europen League Ambassador and an enourage of about 10 others. After, President Katsav was received with polite applause as we endured his handshaking. Keep in mind that the President of Israel has no power and is merely ceremonial. The choir stood, the orchestra stood except for those who play instruments that require seating. It immeditely became apparent to me that the national anthem was about to begin. Whenever I hear Hatikvah chills explode in my body, but, I was not prepared for a 100 strong choir singing with the Philharmonic. The sound was deafening and overtook me. I could not hold back the tears as I sang along and I thought about this amazing country only 60 years old with its own anthem. How proud I was. Next another number, which I suppose was the Euro anthem. The choir and orchestra returned to their seats and the conductor left the stage, again to great applause. The Euro guy spoke for about 5 minutes and then the President spoke and spoke and spoke. Blah, blah, blah. It seemed like an eternity and when it was evident he would not shut up the crowd broke into applause after each sentence in order to prompt him to sit down. Finally the concert, which was the reason we all were there, began 1/2 hour after the scheduled time. In addition to the choir there were 4 soloists. I was amazed that the conductor for the entire 1 hour never referred to sheet music or notes. A real genius. An exhilirating evening.

May 21-22

These 2 days I took it easy. Tried to live like a true Tel Avivian. So there isn't much to report that is exciting. I shall add a few thoughts I forgot in previous posts as they come to mind. I went to the beautiful spa here, swam in the pool and walked and walked and walked. I wanted to scope out the hood and learn my way around. I explored streets I had never been on, browsed the shops and made mental notes of where everything is located. Every couple of hours I stopped at an outside cafe and as I enjoyed my coffee I took in all the glorious moments this country offers, observed the people in wonder as they go about their lives in a normal fashion despite the obvious tension. I was able to finish a wonderful book, The Oster Conspiracy of 1938. This book was sent to me by the author, Terry Parssinen, Professor of History at the University of Tampa, whom I met at my nephew Josh's graduation. This is a very important book. Oster was in the German military and was anti Nazi as were many other in the military as well as civilians. Oster saw early on Hitler's intentions and was instrumental in organizing a plot to assasinate him in 1938. It was all set and would have been accomplished, but for the policy of appeasement promulgated by the British, led by its Prime Minister Nevelle Chamberlain regarding Hitler's move against Czechoslovakia. If the assasination was successful most likely the Nazis would have been overthrown and World War 2 would have been averted. He saw Hitler for what he was and uncannily predicted what would happen. He opined it was better to lose relatively few lives than to lose many more later.There was one Brit who stood alone. He predicted the fate of the world if Britain did not stand up to Hitler. He was villified and scorned. Of course, he was correct. His name was Winston Churchill. Today we have a similar situation, the way I view it. Islam which unequivocally advocates imposing its beliefs on us and ruling the world. Iran is stalling for time like Hitler did. And what do we have today. Appeasement from the Europeans, many Americans and other sorts while Iran races to make nucleur weapons and medium to long range missiles. What is the world thinking? And this Iranian nut wants to meet with Bush. Some of Bush's advisors are telling him to consider this. I pray he doesn't. Don't the Europeans understand that they will be targeted? I know we can defend ourselves and take out Iran if necessary. I am not sure the Euros have the abilty. Bush, like Churchill stands alone and is detested by many. For a supposed brief post I am ranting.

I had to get my internet straight and dealing with HOT (the cable company) makes Comcast and Adelphia look good. Finally accomplished same on Monday.

On Monday Sagi finished his work helping a group that included The Bronfman family and Mr. & Mrs. Saks of department store fame. He called to informe me he was on his way back to Tel Aviv from Jerusalem and we met at 11:30 for some drinks (that's about the time things start to hop here). Usually when I am here we see each other every day. This was the 1st time except for the wedding we could talk.

May 20-Shabbat in Israel

I was ready for breakfast at 9:30. Michal prepared a wonderful Israeli breakfast that was enjoyed on the veranda. On a clear day Tel Aviv is visible, however, there was an overcast. Yet, the view was still incredible. After breakfast we headed to Netanya and visited friends of the Kramers. First we visited a family comprised of the bubba, her 2 sons, one daughter in law and several children one of whom is in the army and is the driver for one of the highest ranking military men who I do not recall, but, he is big. One must appreciate that this is a normal scene here. Families get together on the sabbath regardless of how observant they are. Eventually there was a spirited discussion on the fence and the status of the Palestinians. Opinions ranged from one extreme to the other. I was surprised to hear the grandmother offer sympathy for the Arabs, condemn the fence and rant on about how they are human beings. I held back as I was a guest in their home and I wanted to show respect. It was not easy. BTW the daughter in law is from Long Island and met her Israeli husband in the States.

Next we went to the home of English immigrants who are in charge of the Forgotten People Fund for tea. The total take for the walk was $6,000 so I was able to provide over 1/3 from my generous friends and family. The money collected is for a mass Bar Mitzvah of 15-17 kids. Tefillin and talit were purchased. The remainder of the funds are for transportation, a party and, of course, gifts. I was told that while the kids are excited the parents are more so.

Steve and Michal dropped me off at Cinema City in Herziliya where I met Guy. We ate at Tal Bagel (still the best bagel I have experienced) and since we could not get into DaVinci Code saw Mission Impossible III. It stunk. Guy who now has his license drove me back to the flat.

May 19-Who Is Stephen Kramer?

For years I have been reading a column in the local Jewish Times written by Stephen Kramer. He is from Atlantic City where I grew up. His family for many years has owned Kramer Beverage, a beer disributor. He and his wife fell in love with Israel and moved here with their 2 young boys in 1991. They live in a settlement, Alfe Menashe, which is a mile outside the green line, but, inside the fence. 2 Arab towns are on the other side of the fence. I can see tbhe Arab farmers working with their olive trees. I feel very secure with the fence. It is not a wall. About 2% of the entire fence is wall. There is a moat, then the chain link fence topped with barb wire and electrified. On our side of the fence there is a strip about 15 feet wide that is sand to show footprints in the unlikely event somone should get that far. Finally, there is a narrow road for patrol vehicles. I wonder if there will be a worldwide criticism of the immigrant wall or fence to be built to keep out Mexicans who come to the States to better themselves as there is opposition to this fence to keep out murderers. Steve's weekly column is about life in Israel. He is very opinionated and conservative. Living in a settlement, his views, are quite different from those of my friends in Tel Aviv, who as a general rule would be described as liberal with no sense of feeling or love for the settlers. And I am being overly generous with this assessment. A few months ago I emailed Steve, introduced myself, related how much columns like his have helped inspire me and understand the importance of Israel to the Jewish people. I told him of my love for the land, the recent purchase of the apartment and my thirst to learn as much as I can about israel, the people and my heritage. I expressed my desire, if he was willing, to meet with him, oberve his way of life and also reminesce about Atlantic City and the good old days. He immediately responded and was eager to accede to my wishes. We began a correspondence and planned to get together when I next came. When I decided to make this trip the wheels started and a little over a week ago he asked if I would like to walk with him and his wife, Michal, for a charity fund raiser. I agreed as the charity "The Forgotten People Fund" appealed to me after I read information on it. The purpose is to help Ethiopian immigrants who live in Netanya, about 6500 of them. They are in dire need of help and the purpose of this walk was to raise funds for a mass bar mitzvah. It will be held in June. The kids need tefillin and talit and, of course, a party. The organizers requested that each walker obtain sponsors who would pledge a total of 500 shekels which is about $115 per walker. I reached out to my friends and family and in a few days the checks came pouring in along with emails from people willing to sponsor me. Bottom line is the response was so overwhelming I raised $2,167 with still a few more people to be heard from

I awakened at 6 a.m. made myself some cheerios and banana. Itay collected me at 6:30 and we drove to Ra'anana about 1/2 hour outside of Tel Aviv to meet Steve and Michal at a prearranged place. Steve then drove to the country where the walk took place in a nature reserve. When I presented the checks to the the chairlady she broke down crying and asked if she could kiss me. It is obvious these are people of modest means and this was a huge number for them. So thank all of you for your support. Tomorrow I am going to the organizer's home and will have an understanding as to the impact we had.

Anyway, the walk. I was told it was 10 km. Wrong. It was 11. That is 6.6 miles. Since I am 66 perhaps there is some connection. I must say that my bunion has been bothering me lately, I have had much tenderness in my right ankle area and the knee that was scoped several years ago has not been all that great. I was concerned I could not finish let alone start. However, in the land of miracles, I believe, divine intervention came through and as soon as I saw the kids and the volunteers, all the pain disappeared and I was anxious to go. So with water in one pocket and an apple and banana in another, much sunscreen, I was on my way and finished in a little over 2 hours and that included rest room and water stops. BTW, all the ailments I described above have returned. During the walk Steve, Michal and I introduced ourselves and that along with the ipod shuffle helped the time pass.

After the walk we went to lunch and then drove to the settlement. This is the 1st time I have been to the territories. Coming here is exactly what I wanted as I am able to see with my eyes how important, this area at least, is to the security of the nation. Alfe Menashe, is not part of Olmert's, what I consider, stupid plan, to dismantle many settlements. Why are we rewarding terrorists with land? Whatever, I can see 2 Arab cities nearby and the fence which keeps the terrorists out. Tomorrow morning I will get to see more.

I took a nap to get ready for Shabbat (Sabbath). Steve and Michal are what is known as traditional Jews. They keep Kosher, which is easy here, go to synagogue about once a month, ride on Sabbath, and as most Israelis make a big deal out of Shabbat. Whether religious, traditional or secular Shabbat is everywhere. You can feel it in the early Friday afternoon as the businesses begin to close and the greeting is always "Shabbat Shalom". People know that it is a different, special day, the day G-d rested, a day for reflection, study and prayer for those who so choose. The Christian world relates in the same way with Sunday. So Steve and Michal were having friends over. Each Friday there is this type of interaction at someone's house. I took a nap and at 7:30 Michal lit the candles and Steve sang the kiddush just as Jewish families all over the world do every Friday evening.. We then all sang some Shabbat songs and sat down for a sumptuous dinner. After dinner, Steve and I talked about the issues facing Israel and around 11 I went to sleep. A great, rewarding day.

May 18-Moshe the Mishugana

Slept til 9 and then messed around til 11. A new restaurant opened in the building named Lucas where I had a wonderful breakfast. It is open 8 a.m. until 4 a.m. Beautiful, modern facility with a French inspired menu. So I can roll downstairs for any of the 3 meal times and also a very nice bar for late at night. They have a free hotspot so I can take the laptop there. I met the manager who is very nice. There is no English menu, but, they all speak English.

After breakfast I took the 20 minute walk to Yair's office as I had a few legal issues to go over. I had earlier called among many people Nachum Katz who is the director of the Village Renay and I are involved with. It is a school for at risk children which I have written about extensively. For further information refer to previous blogs, if interested. Nachum said he would like to see me and would drive the 45 minutes to Tel Aviv. We arranged he would call me on his way. He called while I was at Yair's office and I asked him to pick me up at the corner of Rothschild and Shenkin. After a few minutes of discussing where we would eat and unable, as usual, to find a parking spot I suggested we go to my building where I have a parking space and eat at Lucas where I had breakfast. We discussed Buddy who was a mutual friend and unfortunately recently passed. He inquired as to how Joan, Buddy's wife was doing. He has also had some very serious personal family issues this past year, but, is optimistic they will come out of it. We had a nice lunch and promised to see each other again.

It was time to get serious and get some rest. So I decided to take a nap. It was around 4 when Moshe called and asked if I would like to have dinner together. I told him it would have to be early as I had a big walk Friday morning and had to be in Ra'anana by 7:15. He asked if 7:30 was ok (that is early by Israeli standards). I agreed and told him to call me when he was ready. At 7 he awoke me and said he would be at my place by 7:30 (translation: no earlier than 8). Moshe said I should pick the restaurant as I am the expert for food and beverage in Tel Aviv, which is difficult for me to disagree with. Knowing that he probably wouldn't get to me before 8 and with an early rising the next morning I said come to Lucas so I could have my 3rd meal there for the day. May as well find out how dinner is. Moshe asked if they took reservations. I had no idea and at that point didn't know the name of the place. I told him I would go down and wait for him and if there was a problem would call. I asked how many we would be and he replied "With you, 15". Needless to say I was not amused. He has no clue. I went down and was able to work it out. He showed up with the entire contingency from Minnesota so i had a chance to meet them and found them all to be very nice. In the middle of the meal Moshe announced he had to go to Herziliya to pay someone and he would be back in 40 minutes, he was putting me in charge and I should show them the apartment. I immediately started a pool as to when he would get back giving substantial odds for under 40. No takers.

They all loved the apartment and as soon as they left I went to bed.

May 17-Moshe's Wedding

A little background for those who have not read my blog and refresher for those who have. Moshe Bronstein, Renay and I met in 1998 when we participated in a Jewish Federation Mission to Israel.Moshe was the guide. We stayed on for a week or so after the Mission left for the States and engaged Moshe to plan our extended stay. He took care of everything from arranging guides in Jordan to taking us to places in Israel not usually included in the usual tour. He has an uncanny knack of tying the political, religious and historical together. He is a true character and does things to amuse me, respect him and piss me off. These, I am sure will become evident throughout this blog. We have become great friends, much of what I do here centers around him. I love the guy.

Moshe's hectic schedule such as leaving the house at 6 a.m. and not returning until late at night due to the nature of his profession wore thin over time with his wife. A few years ago Dahlia moved out and subsequently they were divorced. Last December, Moshe showed up with this woman about 12 years his junior and a few months later they were married in Minnesota where she apparently comes from. I don't know much about her. I met her once. She is attractive, smart and apparently very much in love with Moshe. The same can be said for Moshe sans the attractive part.

The best I can piece together is that they had a civil marriage in the U.S., she converted and now they are having some kind of religious ceremony in Israel. I was told to dress casually so I wore a sriped long sleeve shirt and a pair of Khakis. Yair picked me up at 6:45 as the wedding was scheduled for 7:30. We arrived a little early and were immediatley greeted by Moshe and Karin. We took some photos and I then took in the amazing scenery and enjoyed the calm aromatic night air. For the next 1 1/2 hours I indulged in some of the finest middle east food imaginable, was entertained by the 3 piece ensemble and mingled. It was then time for the wedding, which was attended by my estimate to be 127 people. We walked down a path behind the bride and groom to the ceremony area. As I started to find a seat Moshe called me over and told me I was to give him away. I suppose this is a big honor. At any rate i was taken aback and then the Rabbi approached and told me to go under the chupah. So there I was with Karin's parents. No one else. The Rabbi then came and Moshe and Karin walked toward the chupah. So there I was standing with my great friend who knows every big shot in Israel and many more in the States. Not bad. The Rabbi is conservative and that makes sense as I am sure the orthodox would want no part of this. The Rabbi spoke, performed the ceremony. The cantor sang a few prayers, a guy came and blew one of the many shofars Moshe had brought from his huge collection. It was a moving ceremony and certainly nothing like the weddings we are accustomed to in the U.S. Truly, a Moshe Bronstein production. Then it was off to dinner and music. A very good band and only in Israel could the lead singer be the cantor. Of course, it was all outside and I sat with Eli Berger a dear friend of Moshe who grew up with him in Israel and now lives in the U.S., Yair, Sagi, Moshe's son, and a few other Israelis. There was one other person, David Baker from Chicago who owns a technology company with worldwide offices. He is planning on purchasing property in Jaffa. He visits Israel every often and would be a good friend to have here. I have so many friends here now which inspired me to utter my famous line I gave to Ed Kornberger shortly after we first met: "I don't need any more friends, you just got in under the wire". As Ed, David roared.

Went homne stuffed with food and a little under the bag from wine.

Oh well. What a day.

May 16-17 Departure and Arrival

The flights become easier and easier. I have it down to a science. Departed Tues. 4 p.m. Flight attendant offers papers prior to takeoff. Read USA Today & Journal 1/2 hour into takeoff when dinner is served. Ordered Kosher this time. Much better than normal fare. Takes about an hour to eat. Then listen to some Rush programs I downloaded to the ipod until I dozed off for a few hours. Then watched movie on my laptop, Proof, which I highly recommend. Spoke to the Christian lady next to me who was making her 1st trip, but, had missed the group the day prior due to poor connection. She was very excited and asked me lots of questions. Time for a little more sleep and then breakfast. As we got closer to the Holy Land I offered my window seat to the Christrian lady so she could have a better view as we landed.

It was now 9:20 a.m. Wednesday 10 minutes ahead of schedule. I had no luggage as I had left most of my clothes in the apartment. Just a carry-on and 2 computers. I breezed past passport control and was thrilled to avoid the sometimes long wait for baggage. My dear friend Moshe, who usually picks me up, was getting married Wednesday night in Neot Kidumim (the Biblical Forest) so I had told him not to bother collecting me as Itay agreed to meet me at the airport. In any event, I could always take the train to Tel Aviv and then a short taxi ride to the apartment. As I exited into the waiting area I did not see Itay and then I heard this voice calling "Mr. Berman". It was Moshe. We embraced, kissed and he uttered those words that always bring a chill to me "Welcome Home". I located Itay, told Moshe to beat it and we headed for the apartment. The weather was perfect. Around 77, sunny and no chance of precip. It was very exciting to enter the apartment and all was in perfect order. Sagi, had taken my clothes to the laundry, had the apt. cleaned and turned on the electric, hot water, etc. All of the furniture has now arrived and the pad looked better than ever. Time for lunch, so we walked a few blocks to Gabrielle, one of my favorite restaurants where I had a nice ceasar salad. Itay and I then took the 10 minute walk to the shuk (market) so I could get the basics. I am always amazed to see radishes the size of baseballs. Took the provisions back to the apt. and looked to see which shirt I would wear that evening for the wedding. To my dismay, I did not have much clothes. I thought I had left much more. There was no under shorts, no jeans etc. So off we went to the mall in Ramat Gan. I purchased the things I thought I needed and we went back home. There I found all my clothes on the night table beside the bed. The clothes had been returned from the laundry wrapped in a purple paper. I had noticed the package earlier and thought it was toilet paper as the packaging was similar. Perhaps, the jet lag and lack of sleep affected my thinking. More than likely it was age. Sagi told me later that he had put a lot of thought as to where to place the clothes so I would not miss the package. To my dismay I found that the internet was not working and after several aggravating phone calls I gave up and will address the issue later. Yair Barda, my lawyer and friend, called and said he was in Jerusalem and was coming to have coffee with me and that he would pick me up to go to the wedding later in the day. I told him to skip the coffee as I needed to get a few hours sleep and I would see him later. Grabbed a few winks, dressed and waited for Yair to fetch me.